Nepal #3: The Views Keep Getting Better

Sunrise from Poon Hill with the Dhaulagiri range in the background. 

After our 13-day Annapurna Circuit hike, we were really looking forward to some R&R in a Nepali town that everyone raved about, Pokhara. Indeed, Pokhara is on a lake, surrounded by lush hills, and you can even see some snow-capped Himalayan mountains if you stand in the right spots.

The view in Pokhara with Phewa Lake. The hill on the right is where all the paragliders launch from. 

As a result, Pokhara had lots of tourists, so we fit right in. We found a decent hotel for a cheap price, and did some relaxing for a few days. I (Kenzi) read books and tested out coffee shops in the futile search for decaf coffee (it doesn't exist in Nepal in case you were wondering). In the meantime, Bill found a paragliding class. The class had already been in session, but since he is already a pilot, flies gliders, and is a kitesurfer, he had plenty of relevant experience, so they let him in on Day 4 of the class. So he took two days of classes and was already flying his own paraglider solo. He had a blast, and was happy tired when he returned after each day of class and flying.

Coming in for a landing

All the local kids chase Bill down as he lands, they get paid $0.20 to pack up the glider

One of our favorite restaurants in Nepal: OR2K. We visited many times. 

After some rest, we decided we hadn't quite had enough of the Himalayas, so we headed out once again for some trekking, this time for the Ghorepani/Poon Hill 5-day trek. We just hired a porter this time, no guide. His name was Laxmi and he spoke decent English.

Laxmi giving the thumbs up!

It was a quick 1-hour drive to Kande from Pokhara and we were on the trail. This hike is the one that all the tourists who have only 5 days to trek do, so it was a bit more well-traveled than Annapurna, which means there were a few more amenities along the way. Also, it never gets high enough to have to worry about altitude sickness. The only downside to this hike was that it was steep! Steep ups and steep downs. Basically, we were gaining the same amount of elevation that we'd climbed on Annapurna to get to Lower Pisang, but instead of doing it in 5 days, we did it in 3 days. But I think Annapurna got us in better shape, so it wasn't as difficult as it might have been otherwise. In fact, thanks to not having to sit at a desk all day every day, I think I'm in the best shape I've been in since high school volleyball 2-a-day practices. I don't think it will last long since we're heading to Southeast Asia next (lots of yummy food!).

Bill and Laxmi on one of the many steep sections of the Ghorepani/Poon Hill trek. 

This trek was steep. Laxmi smiling before we head up yet another flight of stone stairs. Up, Up, and more Up!

Views down lower showing terraced rice farms and switchback paths. 

So green, so pretty!

We saw lots of brilliant flowers. 

Bill with an adorable baby goat. 

Our teahouse in Kyumi.

More goats. 

Bill on the steep stairs down to Kyumi. 

And the views. Seriously, the views on Annapurna were amazing, but the Ghorepani/Poon Hill trek even beat that. The climax is waking up at 4:30am on Day 4 to climb Poon Hill in the dark for the sunrise. It was simply stunning and Poon Hill has a perfect vantage point to see lots of snow-capped Himalayan mountains.

The sun is beginning to rise from Poon Hill. 

Panorama from sunrise at Poon Hill. Mountains include L-R: Dhaulagiri IV, V, III, II, and I, then Tukche Peak. Then Nilgiri, Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre. 

Us with Annapurna I and Annapurna South in the background

The Dhaulagiri range

Drinking masala tea and hot chocolate as the sun rises on Poon Hill, with of course, all the other trekkers. 

So the days looked like this:
Day 1: Hike from Kande to Kyumi (4,000ft). Lots of up and lots of steep down.
Day 2: Hike from Kyumi to Tadapani (8,600ft) (passing through the lovely old village of Ghandruk). Lots of up, up, up.
Day 3: Hike from Tadapani to Ghorepani (9,500ft). More up.
Day 4: Hike Poon Hill (10,500ft) for sunrise (45 min of stairs UP!) Then, down to Ulleri (6,400ft).
Day 5: Hike from Ulleri to Birethanti (3,300ft). Lots of steep down, down, down.

The forest leading to Ghorepani where we saw a group of large monkeys. 

Enjoying this trek a lot!

One of the teahouses where we stopped for lunch along the way. 

Our trusty guidebook and map, which we used daily. 

Bill beating Laxmi at chess in Ghorepani

Trekkers built cairns along the river path.

A donkey, carrying chickens.

Could someone carry me like this too?? Please...

The largest poop we saw while trekking in Nepal. Sorry, just trying to show the real day to day life on the trails. 

We visited a little Gurung Museum in Ghandruk which had traditional tools and items of the Gurung people. 

The Gurung Museum had this baby cradle hanging out front as an example of items the Gurung people use. 

We're done trekking in Nepal! The finish line. 

So this hike was a perfect way to end our time trekking in Nepal. We had a lovely time, enjoyed incredible views, and met plenty of interesting fellow travelers along the way.

We got back to Pokhara, spent one night there. Then we went back to Kathmandu (after a long, bumpy 7-hour bus ride) for a couple nights, got to have dinner with Dylan and Lauren before we flew out.

We arrived early for our bus ride back to Kathmandu. Here's Bill in the bus before it was filled with people. 

Bill discovered that milk comes in a plastic bag here. 

We enjoyed all the decorations of the Diwali celebration in Pokhara. 

Up next: Malaysia!